Check the wiring between the element's terminal block and the back of the range. Replace the wiring harness if it’s melted or otherwise damaged.
If you find no visible wiring damage, note the color of wires going to the element, then lower the cooktop and reinstall the surface element.
Even if you see no physical wiring damage, a break inside the insulation or damage to a section of wire we haven't checked could prevent the element from heating.
So let’s check resistance through the wiring from the control switch to determine whether the element wiring is okay.
Pull the range forward so you can remove the screws that hold the back shield on the control panel and pull off the shield.
Find the control switch for the surface element that isn’t working. Take a picture of the wires connected to the switch to help you reconnect the wires later. This switch has plastic wire harness connectors that you can only insert in the switch in the correct location, but it’s always a good idea to have a photo as a reminder.
Disconnect the wires going to the element.
On this range, brown wires supply current to the surface element that’s not working.
Measure resistance through the brown wires.
The meter should measure approximately the same resistance as it measured through the coil element, 20-40 ohms.
If the meter measures infinite resistance, a break in the wiring is preventing the element from heating. Replace the wire harness between the element switch and the element.
Test the element switch